Iceland is a place where many would call an ‘Alien Planet’, given its majestic landscapes that look out of the world, and its co-existence of both glaciers and geothermal heat. This gorgeous island stands isolated in the far end of the world, but remains one of the most popularly visited countries (in normal pre-Covid climate). My trip there had included guided tours to hike not one but two glaciers, snorkel in a fissure and a boat tour in a glacier lagoon which beauty only took my breath away. These experiences were made incredibly informative by the guides, who had incredible work ethics especially when it comes to environmental protection. I remember learning about climate change and global warming in school, but getting to Iceland opened my eyes to witness these phenomena right before me. My horizon was widened when I had thought-provoking discussions with my guides on the unique Icelandic landscapes and the impact brought forward by geotourism.
With no further ado, I would dissect my tours and some of the knowledge about nature which I have learned during the trip.
*Note: all photos were taken by me, unless stated otherwise.
Global Warming is Fake? Think Twice!
Katla Ice Cave has been one of the most popular destinations in Iceland for the past seven years. Located in the Kötlujökull glacier, it belongs to the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which is the fourth biggest in the entire Iceland. Our tour guide provided us with crampons before we started hiking onto the glaciers- they provide a better grip and are essential at such locations. ‘Are these rocks?’ I asked. The valley of black, wet-looking rocky hills was in fact made up of ice covered in volcanic ash and dust. The guide picked up a rugged piece of rock in a mysterious pitch black. ‘This is an obsidian, also known as Dragonglass in Game of Thrones,’ he explained, before proceeding to smash it in half with another piece next to his feet. The broken sides now look sharp with cutting edges, which similarity to actual glass was observed. ‘It was formed in the rapid cooling of natural lava, and it can be harder than glass,’ he explained while passing the stone to me carefully.
We continued the hike for a bit before we came to a clearing. I could see now that some of the ice was melting. Streams of water flowed down the icy valley walls, some from altitudes enough to call a sliding waterfall, some ran lazily by our feet. I looked up, and was shocked by what I saw- an arch made of ice appeared before me. ‘This WAS the Katla Ice Cave,’ the guide muttered, almost with a hint of sadness in his voice, ‘the arch will fall any moment now, and latest by September (It was July when I visited), the whole thing should be gone.’ That was the first slap on my face on how the environment is actually diminishing. Katla Ice Cave looked absolutely astonishing in pictures- tourists were able to enter the cave for excursion but now no one was allowed near it in case of collapse. In fact, guides had to take control of the number of people getting close to the remains of the ice cave, as even the heat radiating off our skin poses threats to speeding up the melting process.
‘I have lived and worked here as a guide for two years. Every time before I come over to this site, I never ask my colleagues what is different. I only ask- what is the same. ‘Cuz that’s how glaciers work. They changed so rapidly that no one could keep track.’ According to the guide, glaciers are moving rivers. It is solid, but at the same time, it moves. Much poetic as he sounded, I learned that ice caves were formed when there was a stream of water in a block of ice. That flowing stream enlarged the hole, and after time, it became so big that humans could enter. Some ice caves remain for years, open to tourists all year long (some only during winter), and eventually they disappear as their valley shifts. This showed how vulnerable our environment has become partially due to human activity. In a way, global warming speeds up the melting and movement of glaciers, and I was there to witness the last months of what remains of the Katla Ice Cave- something that had lasted for years. If anyone asks me if global warming is a hoax, I would ask them to think twice.
CHARGE! Hiking A Glacier in Skaftafell
My visit to hike the Skaftafell Glacier in the Vatnajökull National Park was another opportunity to learn more about glaciers. This was a much more interesting hike as the slope was steeper and we had a clearer sight and experience in walking up an ‘icy’ mountain. With crampons on, we hiked with an ice axe that came in handy whenever we needed a better grip of the ground. The guide made several stops to explain about glaciers, and I listened attentively. Something new that I learned is that there is often a glacier lagoon at the bottom of a glacier. Imagine a lake at the feet of a hill. Glacier lagoon is an accumulation of the melted water from glacier ice. It expands over time as the glaciers shift towards inland further.
The guide pointed to the glacier walls, which had obvious horizontal patterns above vertical ones, and explained that nature is eroding itself in one way or another. Wind movements erode the top part of the ‘hill’, and leave behind horizontal stripe-like marks. The vertical lines beneath that section were then caused by the downward flowing of melted ice. We were also shown glacier moulins (pronounced as ‘mulans’), which were round, vertical shafts in glaciers often formed by a stream of water. A moulin can expand as well, and will eventually form something which looks like a waterfall, where the melted water escapes to the base of the glaciers. Our guide certainly did not let us go home without a taste of the cleanest water on Earth. We were guided to get into a push-up position with the ice axe, and we sipped the stream of glacier water, without having to touch it at the risk of contaminating it.
Did you know? Iceland has one of the most iconic national flags for having its natural elements as symbolism, or in the locals’ own words, the flag is a vision of their landscape. White represents ice and snow covering the island, blue represents the mountains and red simply means the volcanic fires and lava the island hosts. This special sharing came after I took out my Malaysian flag to pose with, and my guide quizzed my knowledge on what each colour represents on the Jalur Gemilang.
Collapsing Blue Giants
The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was arguably one of my most anticipated destinations. I remember watching Hebe Tien’s music video for her song Insignificance, which was shot here in 2013. She managed to capture an incredible pool full of ice (According to my research, she did not film during an Icelandic winter), but what I saw was a depressing lagoon with way less floating icebergs. I was in Iceland during early Summer, but I believe that the major lack of ice was not fully justified by the season. I was upset, knowing that this could very well be due to global warming and the greenhouse effect again. However, the sight of the beautiful lagoon was spectacular regardless, with ice giants laying across it lazily, and so I snapped out of my madness quickly. I did, without a doubt, feel insignificant and humble standing in front of them. One of them even collapsed right in front of my eyes, breaking apart like agreeing with my realisation that global warming across the years was nothing but a true story.
I got on a guided boat tour to explore the lagoon. The guide this time was a sarcastic young man whose humour I appreciated. One extremely important thing he mentioned was the fact that the lagoon on which we sailed was where the glacier initially was. It had shifted further inland throughout the years and the shift had been picking up quite some speed due to a change in climate and rise in global temperature. Would the whole area be just a pool of water in the future? I wonder. The guide continued with the stories of lagoon formation, and even explained that the lagoon is a fun zone for wild seals, but they had moved for mating season. And I just sat on the amphibian boat, taking in the sight with full admiration while contemplating if comparison videos and personal stories like this one I’m writing can get out there, would more people be aware of the adverse impact the environment has suffered from? And what can we do to help? Less CO2 emission! Less carbon footprints! Less unnecessary production and consumption!
The Bieber Impact
At this point, through my description of Icelanders, you probably already have an idea of how proud they are of their country. Now let’s talk about the Bieber impact, and their government's action to protect their nature and environment.
When Canadian pop star, Justin Bieber, decided to take advantage of the Icelandic majestic landscapes and shot the music video for his song, I’ll Show You, there in 2015, he brought to life a trend to visit the isolated country. Hordes of Bieber fans then flocked to the nation to track his filming locations, including this particular canyon known as the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, which was placed in the international spotlight thanks to the singer. Yet, in the video, Bieber notoriously set foot on living grass, trespassing dangerous sites where no footpaths were available. These became bad examples which fans naively followed- leading to a months-long government travel ban to that canyon only a few years after Bieber’s music video release. The Environmental Agency of Iceland then built proper footpaths to ensure both visitors’ safety and also fences as a preventive effort of tourists destroying the local fragile vegetation.
I got the chance to visit this canyon now that it has reopened to the public after the safety measures were in place. The canyon remained a tourists’ hotspot after half a decade Bieber’s music video was released. The valley walls stood at around 100m in height and were covered in beautiful moss. The valley saw a river running, with water gushing down from a waterfall close to the end of the canyon footpaths- all of which had been properly installed. The place looked magnificent on its own and deserved the over-tourism, with or without Bieber’s involvement.
Now, let’s think! Bieber most probably had no malicious intention of hurting the environment when he stepped on the cliffside vegetation. He certainly did not expect his supporters to do the same too. There must be countless examples of unintended actions in our daily life that may pose detrimental threats to our environment. Can you name some of them, and share how you solve or avoid committing such ‘crimes’?
Natural VS Manmade Hot Springs
A huge unmissable feature of Iceland is its geothermal energy. Strategically located in a volcanic zone, the country is home to one of the most reliable (available 365 days a year, unlike wind and solar energy) biodegradable energy. This leaves us no doubt that hot springs are a norm in such a place. Did you know, there are two different types of hot springs available- manmade and natural? I found time to visit one of each, to enlighten myself of their differences, and to learn more about the sustainability of running them.
Reykjadalur is a valley with a natural hot spring river running. It took us approximately an hour to hike to the swimming spot, but the hike was fun and there were occasional passing-by horses and their trainers. The air smelt like a mixture of sulphur, horse dung and grass. There were only a few wooden fences built next to the river to facilitate open changing of clothes and to my slight disappointment, the river was shallow to my calves. However, it was sufficient to submerge my body when I laid flat, and it was mildly filled with people. This open valley was a simple enjoyment if you like a free experience, since getting to enjoy a warm bath in the middle of nowhere is a luxury. No one seemed to be managing the place- only the visitors were holding each other accountable for not stealing clothes or leaving behind unwanted trash. Other than that, it was all natural- the heat, the river bed and everything.
Blue Lagoon, on the other hand, is one of the most commercialised tourist attractions near Reykjavik. The blue, chalky (thanks to the rich silica) water was not the only reason captivating visitors, its complete set of luxurious facilities that include a cafe, changing areas, free towels and a complimentary mud mask and drinks multiplied the charm. The lagoon was born when Svartsengi Resource Park started channeling excess geothermal energy to a neighbouring reservoir formed in a lava field. The energy-harvesting facility could be seen from the Blue Lagoon, and despite the overwhelmingly advertised benefits of the lagoon water and claims of sustainable adaptation of the facilities to its surrounding habitat, one can’t help but wonder if soaking in the lagoon is actually eco-friendly. For example, the need to build and maintain the spa and shower facilities could consume more energy and water than necessary. The drinks store located right in the middle of the lagoon promotes the use of disposable plastic cups/bottles for their visitors’ convenience, but rather, many irresponsible people leave their used cups by (or in) the ‘pool’. Visitors are charged GBP40 for the cheapest entry package, yet, flocks of tourists seem not to mind but continue to support this highly commercialised geotourism. For the experience, it was completely worth the price- but if one could get something entirely natural, why settle for something manmade?
Natural Disaster VS Geotourism
We have seen ice and mountains, which are represented by the colours white and blue on the Icelandic flag. What does the last colour, red, represent? Yep, you got it! It is the volcanic fires and lava. After 800 years of staying dormant, Fagradalsfjall Volcano started spurting out vicious lava again on 19 March 2021, and is not showing signs of stopping just yet. It has been erupting for almost 7 months, and is on track to be one of the longest volcanic eruptions in the region in more than 50 years. Since my trip to Iceland was primarily aimed to study the local landscape and environments, not going to see this volcano coming to life is a huge waste of opportunity.
This volcanic eruption arrived at the best time- the Covid-19 Pandemic, which is contrary to common beliefs as it simply made more sense to have been a jab of tourism booster in a pre- or post-Covid climate. However, think about it this way, with Covid cases being uncontrollable in most countries, Iceland’s excellent governance and its early ending of lockdown have propelled the country to the top of any travellers’ list. By Mid-July 2021, the local government had lifted the requirements of compulsory testing upon arrivals and mask-wearing in public indoor places. This scene was a relief to many, and on top of that, the country presented its most tourist-friendly volcanic eruption yet. Timing is a wondrous thing, and it has now gathered a survival kit for Iceland’s tourism.
The Dividing Gap
Last but never the least, another geotourism opportunity I had taken during my trip was snorkelling in the Silfra Fissure. Silfra Fissure is a part of the Þingvellir National Park, which forms the Golden Circle alongside Gullfoss and Geysir. It is an underwater rift formed between the tectonic plates of North America and Eurasia. In plain words, it is a split in the continental earth plates, making anyone diving the area look as if they are touching the two continents at once. We were informed that the plates were moving apart, at the rate of 2cm each year.
My tour was guided by Adventure Viking, a local tour company which normally brings visitors around the fissure, after explaining to them the essentials of survival while diving or snorkelling. Our guide, Maria, did a splendid job running through the necessary information we needed to know before getting into the water. This included the route, ways of staying afloat, ways to use the equipment and more.
As I did not have a diving license, I opted for snorkelling, but took the wet suit so I could get underwater rather than just staying on the surface. The water temperature remains constant all year long at 1-2 Degree Celsius. During the cool summer of 10+ Degree Celsius, the water temperature posed a huge contrast. The wet suit was difficult to put on as it fitted like a glove, and Maria instructed us to never stop moving our body in the water so that the water that surrounds our skins can be heated up and function as an insulator. Here’s a photo of me looking like a seal, before the big adventure:
The water was freezing. I did not dare to stop moving, and to dip my face in the water in order to observe the rift. Through my goggles, the water was crystal clear and I could see every single rock at the bottom; no fish, but a mysterious blue light reflecting off the rocky surfaces, which Maria explained as the outcome of light reflection through the calm water. (By the way, the water was clear and slightly sweet.) I followed Maria and snorkelled through the rift- a long crack that is mostly straight except for a few turns. It would have looked like a hairline fracture from the sky.
I took note of Maria’s professional guiding skills, when ‘emergencies’ occurred: when my blowpipe fell off and when one of the visitors following the tour panicked in fear of depths. He grabbed onto the nearby rocks, but was instantly halted by Maria as it was a golden rule to not land on or touch the rocks in the fissure- an evidence that they hold high ethics in caring for the nature. Maria calmed the guy down in no time, and led him through the course smoothly. What was I doing then? Just enjoying myself with the view while struggling to survive the arctic water. However, in a discussion after the session, we agreed that the incident had clearly shown the Icelanders’ massive respect for nature and incredible work ethics in taking care of the environment.
All In All
Iceland has stunned me over and over again with its exceptional nature, and the thing even more awe-inspiring was the local attitudes towards appreciating and conserving their environments. I must confess that this trip had been tremendously fruitful, with so many out-of-this-world sightings of waterfalls, and mountains. Beyond the touristy things I have surely taken the chances to experience, I am most grateful for the opportunity to learn about how glaciers are formed, how climate change and global warming are impacting the nature in Iceland, and the locals’ attitude as well as work ethics towards committing to care for the environment. Like I said previously, learning about the deteriorating environment in textbooks and witnessing the phenomena proving it is real are two different things. Sometimes it takes a hands-on experience like my trip to understand in-depth the issues being faced by our Mother Earth. Thus, I hope this article can provide useful insights for those who have yet gotten the chance to travel during this pandemic, and remind everyone that the small little things we do in life actually do contribute to the wellbeing of our environment. For example, the open burning of rubbish and dried leaves is actually speeding up the melting process of glaciers- it’s not necessarily in front of you, but IT IS happening.
There my summer went by so quickly, but definitely productive and mind-blowing in so many ways. Here’s to more fruitful summers ahead. Thanks for reading!
By,
Euan Thum,
10 October 2021,
Special thanks to Brian Ng and To Ying Yun for reading this article and giving me comments on how I could improve on it!
With no further ado, I would dissect my tours and some of the knowledge about nature which I have learned during the trip.
*Note: all photos were taken by me, unless stated otherwise.
Global Warming is Fake? Think Twice!
Katla Ice Cave has been one of the most popular destinations in Iceland for the past seven years. Located in the Kötlujökull glacier, it belongs to the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which is the fourth biggest in the entire Iceland. Our tour guide provided us with crampons before we started hiking onto the glaciers- they provide a better grip and are essential at such locations. ‘Are these rocks?’ I asked. The valley of black, wet-looking rocky hills was in fact made up of ice covered in volcanic ash and dust. The guide picked up a rugged piece of rock in a mysterious pitch black. ‘This is an obsidian, also known as Dragonglass in Game of Thrones,’ he explained, before proceeding to smash it in half with another piece next to his feet. The broken sides now look sharp with cutting edges, which similarity to actual glass was observed. ‘It was formed in the rapid cooling of natural lava, and it can be harder than glass,’ he explained while passing the stone to me carefully.
We continued the hike for a bit before we came to a clearing. I could see now that some of the ice was melting. Streams of water flowed down the icy valley walls, some from altitudes enough to call a sliding waterfall, some ran lazily by our feet. I looked up, and was shocked by what I saw- an arch made of ice appeared before me. ‘This WAS the Katla Ice Cave,’ the guide muttered, almost with a hint of sadness in his voice, ‘the arch will fall any moment now, and latest by September (It was July when I visited), the whole thing should be gone.’ That was the first slap on my face on how the environment is actually diminishing. Katla Ice Cave looked absolutely astonishing in pictures- tourists were able to enter the cave for excursion but now no one was allowed near it in case of collapse. In fact, guides had to take control of the number of people getting close to the remains of the ice cave, as even the heat radiating off our skin poses threats to speeding up the melting process.
Katla Ice Cave in the past. Photo taken from Google.
What’s left of Katla Ice Cave when I visited.
‘I have lived and worked here as a guide for two years. Every time before I come over to this site, I never ask my colleagues what is different. I only ask- what is the same. ‘Cuz that’s how glaciers work. They changed so rapidly that no one could keep track.’ According to the guide, glaciers are moving rivers. It is solid, but at the same time, it moves. Much poetic as he sounded, I learned that ice caves were formed when there was a stream of water in a block of ice. That flowing stream enlarged the hole, and after time, it became so big that humans could enter. Some ice caves remain for years, open to tourists all year long (some only during winter), and eventually they disappear as their valley shifts. This showed how vulnerable our environment has become partially due to human activity. In a way, global warming speeds up the melting and movement of glaciers, and I was there to witness the last months of what remains of the Katla Ice Cave- something that had lasted for years. If anyone asks me if global warming is a hoax, I would ask them to think twice.
CHARGE! Hiking A Glacier in Skaftafell
My visit to hike the Skaftafell Glacier in the Vatnajökull National Park was another opportunity to learn more about glaciers. This was a much more interesting hike as the slope was steeper and we had a clearer sight and experience in walking up an ‘icy’ mountain. With crampons on, we hiked with an ice axe that came in handy whenever we needed a better grip of the ground. The guide made several stops to explain about glaciers, and I listened attentively. Something new that I learned is that there is often a glacier lagoon at the bottom of a glacier. Imagine a lake at the feet of a hill. Glacier lagoon is an accumulation of the melted water from glacier ice. It expands over time as the glaciers shift towards inland further.
The guide pointed to the glacier walls, which had obvious horizontal patterns above vertical ones, and explained that nature is eroding itself in one way or another. Wind movements erode the top part of the ‘hill’, and leave behind horizontal stripe-like marks. The vertical lines beneath that section were then caused by the downward flowing of melted ice. We were also shown glacier moulins (pronounced as ‘mulans’), which were round, vertical shafts in glaciers often formed by a stream of water. A moulin can expand as well, and will eventually form something which looks like a waterfall, where the melted water escapes to the base of the glaciers. Our guide certainly did not let us go home without a taste of the cleanest water on Earth. We were guided to get into a push-up position with the ice axe, and we sipped the stream of glacier water, without having to touch it at the risk of contaminating it.
A moulin
Drinking glacier water
Another interesting thing we were shown was glacier mice. They may look like soft, cute balls of moss, but they were actually rocks with their surfaces covered. Rocks sometimes move when they fall off their original positions and get themselves wet. The moisture then made it ideal for moss to grow. Thus, as the rocks get blown away by the wind, or even get moved by the melting ice, all surfaces receive adequate moisture and thus promote even moss growth, looking like green mice.
Did you know? Iceland has one of the most iconic national flags for having its natural elements as symbolism, or in the locals’ own words, the flag is a vision of their landscape. White represents ice and snow covering the island, blue represents the mountains and red simply means the volcanic fires and lava the island hosts. This special sharing came after I took out my Malaysian flag to pose with, and my guide quizzed my knowledge on what each colour represents on the Jalur Gemilang.
The Icelandic flag, taken from Google
Collapsing Blue Giants
The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon was arguably one of my most anticipated destinations. I remember watching Hebe Tien’s music video for her song Insignificance, which was shot here in 2013. She managed to capture an incredible pool full of ice (According to my research, she did not film during an Icelandic winter), but what I saw was a depressing lagoon with way less floating icebergs. I was in Iceland during early Summer, but I believe that the major lack of ice was not fully justified by the season. I was upset, knowing that this could very well be due to global warming and the greenhouse effect again. However, the sight of the beautiful lagoon was spectacular regardless, with ice giants laying across it lazily, and so I snapped out of my madness quickly. I did, without a doubt, feel insignificant and humble standing in front of them. One of them even collapsed right in front of my eyes, breaking apart like agreeing with my realisation that global warming across the years was nothing but a true story.
Image from Hebe Tien’s ‘Insignificance’ Music Video, taken from Google.
I got on a guided boat tour to explore the lagoon. The guide this time was a sarcastic young man whose humour I appreciated. One extremely important thing he mentioned was the fact that the lagoon on which we sailed was where the glacier initially was. It had shifted further inland throughout the years and the shift had been picking up quite some speed due to a change in climate and rise in global temperature. Would the whole area be just a pool of water in the future? I wonder. The guide continued with the stories of lagoon formation, and even explained that the lagoon is a fun zone for wild seals, but they had moved for mating season. And I just sat on the amphibian boat, taking in the sight with full admiration while contemplating if comparison videos and personal stories like this one I’m writing can get out there, would more people be aware of the adverse impact the environment has suffered from? And what can we do to help? Less CO2 emission! Less carbon footprints! Less unnecessary production and consumption!
Photo by Ler Wei Jun.
The Bieber Impact
At this point, through my description of Icelanders, you probably already have an idea of how proud they are of their country. Now let’s talk about the Bieber impact, and their government's action to protect their nature and environment.
Image taken from Google featuring Bieber.
When Canadian pop star, Justin Bieber, decided to take advantage of the Icelandic majestic landscapes and shot the music video for his song, I’ll Show You, there in 2015, he brought to life a trend to visit the isolated country. Hordes of Bieber fans then flocked to the nation to track his filming locations, including this particular canyon known as the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, which was placed in the international spotlight thanks to the singer. Yet, in the video, Bieber notoriously set foot on living grass, trespassing dangerous sites where no footpaths were available. These became bad examples which fans naively followed- leading to a months-long government travel ban to that canyon only a few years after Bieber’s music video release. The Environmental Agency of Iceland then built proper footpaths to ensure both visitors’ safety and also fences as a preventive effort of tourists destroying the local fragile vegetation.
I got the chance to visit this canyon now that it has reopened to the public after the safety measures were in place. The canyon remained a tourists’ hotspot after half a decade Bieber’s music video was released. The valley walls stood at around 100m in height and were covered in beautiful moss. The valley saw a river running, with water gushing down from a waterfall close to the end of the canyon footpaths- all of which had been properly installed. The place looked magnificent on its own and deserved the over-tourism, with or without Bieber’s involvement.
Now, let’s think! Bieber most probably had no malicious intention of hurting the environment when he stepped on the cliffside vegetation. He certainly did not expect his supporters to do the same too. There must be countless examples of unintended actions in our daily life that may pose detrimental threats to our environment. Can you name some of them, and share how you solve or avoid committing such ‘crimes’?
Natural VS Manmade Hot Springs
A huge unmissable feature of Iceland is its geothermal energy. Strategically located in a volcanic zone, the country is home to one of the most reliable (available 365 days a year, unlike wind and solar energy) biodegradable energy. This leaves us no doubt that hot springs are a norm in such a place. Did you know, there are two different types of hot springs available- manmade and natural? I found time to visit one of each, to enlighten myself of their differences, and to learn more about the sustainability of running them.
Reykjadalur is a valley with a natural hot spring river running. It took us approximately an hour to hike to the swimming spot, but the hike was fun and there were occasional passing-by horses and their trainers. The air smelt like a mixture of sulphur, horse dung and grass. There were only a few wooden fences built next to the river to facilitate open changing of clothes and to my slight disappointment, the river was shallow to my calves. However, it was sufficient to submerge my body when I laid flat, and it was mildly filled with people. This open valley was a simple enjoyment if you like a free experience, since getting to enjoy a warm bath in the middle of nowhere is a luxury. No one seemed to be managing the place- only the visitors were holding each other accountable for not stealing clothes or leaving behind unwanted trash. Other than that, it was all natural- the heat, the river bed and everything.
Blue Lagoon, on the other hand, is one of the most commercialised tourist attractions near Reykjavik. The blue, chalky (thanks to the rich silica) water was not the only reason captivating visitors, its complete set of luxurious facilities that include a cafe, changing areas, free towels and a complimentary mud mask and drinks multiplied the charm. The lagoon was born when Svartsengi Resource Park started channeling excess geothermal energy to a neighbouring reservoir formed in a lava field. The energy-harvesting facility could be seen from the Blue Lagoon, and despite the overwhelmingly advertised benefits of the lagoon water and claims of sustainable adaptation of the facilities to its surrounding habitat, one can’t help but wonder if soaking in the lagoon is actually eco-friendly. For example, the need to build and maintain the spa and shower facilities could consume more energy and water than necessary. The drinks store located right in the middle of the lagoon promotes the use of disposable plastic cups/bottles for their visitors’ convenience, but rather, many irresponsible people leave their used cups by (or in) the ‘pool’. Visitors are charged GBP40 for the cheapest entry package, yet, flocks of tourists seem not to mind but continue to support this highly commercialised geotourism. For the experience, it was completely worth the price- but if one could get something entirely natural, why settle for something manmade?
Natural Disaster VS Geotourism
We have seen ice and mountains, which are represented by the colours white and blue on the Icelandic flag. What does the last colour, red, represent? Yep, you got it! It is the volcanic fires and lava. After 800 years of staying dormant, Fagradalsfjall Volcano started spurting out vicious lava again on 19 March 2021, and is not showing signs of stopping just yet. It has been erupting for almost 7 months, and is on track to be one of the longest volcanic eruptions in the region in more than 50 years. Since my trip to Iceland was primarily aimed to study the local landscape and environments, not going to see this volcano coming to life is a huge waste of opportunity.
This volcanic eruption arrived at the best time- the Covid-19 Pandemic, which is contrary to common beliefs as it simply made more sense to have been a jab of tourism booster in a pre- or post-Covid climate. However, think about it this way, with Covid cases being uncontrollable in most countries, Iceland’s excellent governance and its early ending of lockdown have propelled the country to the top of any travellers’ list. By Mid-July 2021, the local government had lifted the requirements of compulsory testing upon arrivals and mask-wearing in public indoor places. This scene was a relief to many, and on top of that, the country presented its most tourist-friendly volcanic eruption yet. Timing is a wondrous thing, and it has now gathered a survival kit for Iceland’s tourism.
In fact, the volcano is located in a deserted, undeveloped field only about one hour from Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik. Its location was nothing but strategic as the eruption posed no threats to the country’s usual economic activities. It was convenient for tourists to visit from the city. There were three different routes to reach platforms where the spurting lava could be observed. We had little time that day, and so thanks to the amiable American tourists we met on the hiking trail, we turned to take the easiest route. Witnessing an active volcano performing its best was undoubtedly an unmatchable experience. Picture yourself standing on a cliff, the cold wind hitting on you, the smell of sulphur getting vaguer over time plus the vigorous roars of boiling lava in the crater, how would that have felt like?
Photo by Ler Wei Jun
The Dividing Gap
Last but never the least, another geotourism opportunity I had taken during my trip was snorkelling in the Silfra Fissure. Silfra Fissure is a part of the Þingvellir National Park, which forms the Golden Circle alongside Gullfoss and Geysir. It is an underwater rift formed between the tectonic plates of North America and Eurasia. In plain words, it is a split in the continental earth plates, making anyone diving the area look as if they are touching the two continents at once. We were informed that the plates were moving apart, at the rate of 2cm each year.
My tour was guided by Adventure Viking, a local tour company which normally brings visitors around the fissure, after explaining to them the essentials of survival while diving or snorkelling. Our guide, Maria, did a splendid job running through the necessary information we needed to know before getting into the water. This included the route, ways of staying afloat, ways to use the equipment and more.
As I did not have a diving license, I opted for snorkelling, but took the wet suit so I could get underwater rather than just staying on the surface. The water temperature remains constant all year long at 1-2 Degree Celsius. During the cool summer of 10+ Degree Celsius, the water temperature posed a huge contrast. The wet suit was difficult to put on as it fitted like a glove, and Maria instructed us to never stop moving our body in the water so that the water that surrounds our skins can be heated up and function as an insulator. Here’s a photo of me looking like a seal, before the big adventure:
Photo taken by Ler Wei Jun
The water was freezing. I did not dare to stop moving, and to dip my face in the water in order to observe the rift. Through my goggles, the water was crystal clear and I could see every single rock at the bottom; no fish, but a mysterious blue light reflecting off the rocky surfaces, which Maria explained as the outcome of light reflection through the calm water. (By the way, the water was clear and slightly sweet.) I followed Maria and snorkelled through the rift- a long crack that is mostly straight except for a few turns. It would have looked like a hairline fracture from the sky.
I took note of Maria’s professional guiding skills, when ‘emergencies’ occurred: when my blowpipe fell off and when one of the visitors following the tour panicked in fear of depths. He grabbed onto the nearby rocks, but was instantly halted by Maria as it was a golden rule to not land on or touch the rocks in the fissure- an evidence that they hold high ethics in caring for the nature. Maria calmed the guy down in no time, and led him through the course smoothly. What was I doing then? Just enjoying myself with the view while struggling to survive the arctic water. However, in a discussion after the session, we agreed that the incident had clearly shown the Icelanders’ massive respect for nature and incredible work ethics in taking care of the environment.
Photo taken by Maria @ Adventure Vikings
All In All
Iceland has stunned me over and over again with its exceptional nature, and the thing even more awe-inspiring was the local attitudes towards appreciating and conserving their environments. I must confess that this trip had been tremendously fruitful, with so many out-of-this-world sightings of waterfalls, and mountains. Beyond the touristy things I have surely taken the chances to experience, I am most grateful for the opportunity to learn about how glaciers are formed, how climate change and global warming are impacting the nature in Iceland, and the locals’ attitude as well as work ethics towards committing to care for the environment. Like I said previously, learning about the deteriorating environment in textbooks and witnessing the phenomena proving it is real are two different things. Sometimes it takes a hands-on experience like my trip to understand in-depth the issues being faced by our Mother Earth. Thus, I hope this article can provide useful insights for those who have yet gotten the chance to travel during this pandemic, and remind everyone that the small little things we do in life actually do contribute to the wellbeing of our environment. For example, the open burning of rubbish and dried leaves is actually speeding up the melting process of glaciers- it’s not necessarily in front of you, but IT IS happening.
There my summer went by so quickly, but definitely productive and mind-blowing in so many ways. Here’s to more fruitful summers ahead. Thanks for reading!
By,
Euan Thum,
10 October 2021,
Special thanks to Brian Ng and To Ying Yun for reading this article and giving me comments on how I could improve on it!
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